Dear Journeywoman:

I, too, used Ali as a guide and wanted to add my advice about the booking process.

My boyfriend and I booked Ali for a ride from Fez to Merzouga, then a camel ride into the desert for the night and the next day for a tour to Todra Gorge. Though overall going into the desert was a great experience, we had some logistical problems with Ali. I think doing a few things differently would have avoided any problems.

Ali arranged for our 7-hour taxi ride from Fez to Merzouga. The day before, Ali told me on the phone his brother would come but instead, Ali sent 2 men in a Landrover to pick us up. These 2 men spoke no English and no French so we could not communicate at all. That night we went into the desert on camels and again, Ali sent us off with a very nice man, Hada, who spoke no English and no French so again, we could not communicate at all. After spending the night in the desert, we arrived back at the Nomad Palace - the plan was that Ali would take us on a tour to Todra Gorge and the next day take us to the bus station for the agreed upon price of 1200 dirham. As I was paying him in advance, I made it clear that we were paying for a tour with he or his brother and not with someone who could speak no English or French and Ali agreed. We paid. Later, Ali sent us off with the man who had picked us up in Fez who spoke no English or French. Ali kept apologising and saying he was really busy and had a big group coming the next day. The fact was that we never agreed to pay 1200 dirham for a 2 hour ride to Todra Gorge - we wanted a tour with someone who could teach us about the land, the gorge, the vegetation and the oasis. But we had already paid and did not feel like having an argument.

I would suggest the following. Book any trip through a woman who assists Ali named Rosemary Sheel (email Ali and ask to book through her) to ensure there are no miscommunications. Then specifically ask who will be the guide and (if not Ali) if that guide speaks English or French (or whatever language you speak). Ask for confirmation in writing. Also confirm in writing the price for each activity and what it will entail. Remember you can bargain as this is the Moroccan way. Lastly, never pay in advance - pay only afterward to ensure your satisfaction. If you cover these few bases, I think you will have a wonderful time with Ali and in the desert.

Shannon, USA