The train was my hotel... The best trip I ever had in Spain (and I've had several) was by the beautiful Transcantabrico train that goes from Santiago de Compostela on the western coast across the northern most regions (usually within sight of the Atlantic) and then cuts down to Leon. The train is your hotel! Accommodations are all suites with double beds, a minibar, private toilet and bath. The train stops every night so you can have a peaceful sleep--and so you won't miss the gorgeous scenery. Food is all-inclusive and you stop at 3-star and 4-star restaurants every day (I got so I just picked at everything they served since if I'd eaten it all, I'd have turned into a balloon). Breakfast is on the train -- and it's terrific. You're met at places like Oviedo by an air-conditioned bus that takes you to Roman ruins. The guides are superb. Ours was tri-lingual and a joy to be around (her name was Gabi). Stops in an old medieval town like Santillana del Mar, in the Picos de Europa, in old fishing towns, and many other picturesque, culture-rich places made this a fabulous vacation. It was also nice to develop a camaraderie with the other passengers, as well. I traveled for 8 days and 7 nights on the Transcantabrico. Passengers may take the train from west to east, or from east to west. Either way, it's unforgettable. It is like a wonderful cruise on rails. For further information see: http://www.ibertours.com.au/cantab2003.html Carol, Falls Church, Virginia, USA

A Flaminco show in Seville... I'd like to recommend a Flamenco show that takes place in an 18th century building in the Jewish quarter of Seville. It allows for only maybe 30 people at a time to watch, with two rows of chairs around three sides of the stage. There is a small square wooden stage in the middle of the room, and maybe three musicians and whatever dancer is performing that night, with no amps or anything like that. It is in a courtyard that is relatively small and surrounded by high walls on all sides, and covered by a tent ceiling. There are Moorish details (lamps, arches, painting) all over the space, and the front wall behind the stage is completely covered in hanging vines. It was breathtaking and intense -- I recommend it to anyone wanting to see a skilled performace that doesn't seem contrived for bus loads of tourists. The space is also home to a lovely restaurant and a small museum dedicated to the lives of Jewish people in the history of Sevilla. But, there's an even better Italian restaurant just down the street, called San Marco. The Flaminco show takes place at the Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus (located at Ximenez de Enciso 28, 41004, Sevilla). Shannon, Des Moines, Iowa, USA

Be a cowgirl in Granada... Cabacci Horse Center is a small family-run horse riding center in Guadix in the mountains outside of Granada. Prices are incredible. You get your accommodation, breakfast, and horse riding facilities for about 100 euro per person for the weekend. There are also week long and non-rider programs. The accommodation is in small detached wooden cabins, with a set of bunk beds and one double bed. There's a large modern bathroom, air conditioning and small TV. You are also given full use of a giant kitchen, with industrial sized stove and two refrigerators. See their website at: http://www.cabacci.com/ukINDEX.HTM Tanya, Spain.

Picasso in Malaga... Fulfilling a wish of one of Spain's most renowned artists, King Juan Carlos inaugurated a museum dedicated to the work of Pablo Picasso in the artist's home city of Malaga. The museum holds a permanent collection of 204 works, including paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics and engravings. Born in Malaga in 1881, Picasso went to live in Paris in 1904. He pledged never to set foot again in Spain as long as dictator General Franco was alive. Picasso dies in 1973. Franco died two years later, allowing Spain to return to democracy. (Source: National Post, October 28, 2003)

Spain can be dangerous... Be careful, don't carry a purse. I learned this from first-hand experience. I live in France and go to Spain often -- Madrid being my favorite city! On a beautiful sunny Sunday afternoon I was walking in the crowded park with my sister and daughter. Suddenly I was accosted by someone who stole my purse, knocked me over with great force and broke my arm. It was so very fast that no one could do a thing. Since then I have heard many such horror stories about my beautiful Madrid. I still return - but I am very careful there. Marval, France Ed. note: I recently read about thieves who pose as 'Policia' on Barcelon's busy, crowded streets. They stop tourists and ask to see I.D. from your wallet. If you don't give it to them they pretend to be very offended and warn that they will arrest you. Those who fall for the scheme by these fake police generally get their wallets back, but without their credit cards. This is a perfect spot to suggest that JourneyWomen read the article Twelve Ways to Trick Thieves as You Travel. We believe that knowing these facts will make you a more protected traveller.

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