one thing to remember, though, is "meal times". To be
on the safe side, let's say these are 1:00-2:30 pm,
and then 8:00 -10:00 pm. However, so many places are
family run that, if the evening is a bit slow, they
might decide to call it a day earlier than scheduled.
And, if you peep into a restaurant at about 7:00 pm
and see a a tableful of guys and perhaps one woman eating
steadily, don't go in. That's the staff fueling up before
the official opening. A very encouraging sign, however:
they obviously eat on the premises!
abound in Milan, of course. Pizza is, clearly, an easy
option. There are lots of these around so I will give
you just one suggestion. A few metres from the Duomo,
try la Dogana, at
3 Via Dogana (http://www.pizzeriadogana.it), closed
Here are a couple of great places for lunch, centre
of town, cheap and cheerful, where the local office-workers
eat. Be prepared to go with the flow.
in Via Cerva is packed with office workers from 12:30
to about 2:30 pm. Go late, about 2:00 pm if you don't
want to wait in line. There is a two-course set menu
at about 13euro, or a la carte. Quick, attentive service,
brisk without being brusque. It gets very noisy, so
at least once during the session, the owner/waiter will
"shush" everyone. It works.
In the area around Via Torino, there is the Bistrot,
which is part of the bar on the corner of Via Amedei
and Via Fieno. Cheap and cheerful would be the way to
describe it. A plate of pasta, a dish of freshly-cooked
green beans, and a beer for about 8 Euro is pretty good
value, you must admit. The people running it are very
pleasant. OK, so it is self-service, but forget university
canteens. Try it, from about 12:30 - 2:30 pm Monday
to Friday. Busy until about 2:00 pm, and for the whole
of the Friday session, when fish is on the menu and
it is scrumptious!
While we are on the subject of quick, inexpensive meals
with little fuss, the Autogrill
self-service restaurants -- one of which you will find
in the Piazza del Duomo -- are not at all bad. If nothing
else, they are open daily, for both lunch and dinner.
The idea might take a little getting used to, you take
your tray, and your cutlery, and then proceed to the
various counters and choose your food. Has a self-service
cafeteria ever been like this before? In a word, no.
For dinner, try Alto Pascio,
a Tuscan place in Via Fara which is convenient if you
are meeting someone from the central station, or you
are having dinner before seeing someone off at the central
station or are staying, or have
guests staying, at the Gallia. Otherwise it is a bit
out-of-the-way. The prices seem on the high side but
the portions are plentiful. The address is: Via Fara
17, tel: 02 6702458, closed Saturday and Sunday lunch.
For Sicilian specialities, the trattoria Ottimofiore
at 26 Via Bramante, just by Via Sarpi, is great. It
can be quite hard to get reservations and the owner
is a little bit "funny" at times, but the food is worth
it (closed Sundays, tel: 02 33101224).
I hope that this advice is a help to all other Journeywoman
travelling to my part of the world.