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She's Lost and Found in Italy
Journeywoman Maria Murad is a writer
living in Minnesota. She has published a children's book, short stories,
memoirs and essays in various publications. Besides writing, she loves
to travel, especially to Europe. She doesn't love getting lost. Maria
writes...
In the fall of 2001, I took a long-awaited
trip to Italy. I went alone, but with a tour group that welcomed single
travelers. Having been abroad three times previously, I felt confident
in my ability to handle any situation, especially with a group leader
to guide us.
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On my way...
My grown children,
turning the tables, admonished me: Be careful, watch your cash,
watch your passport, don't talk to strangers who look weird,
and above all, don't go out alone, especially at night. Yes, yes,
I told them. I know .
I know. I am a grownup, after all!
The time to leave
came, and I was excited as I always am when I board an airplane.
And this trip to the land of my grandparents was especially thrilling.
I would see northern Italy, Tuscany and travel southwards from Venice
to Florence and then, finally, Rome. I wished fervently I had learned
more of the language, but I had my Italian for Travelers and a handy
pocket phrase book to guide me. Our first stop was Venice, where
we were to stay three days. The guide was knowledgeable, the other
travelers congenial and the Italian people welcoming.
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Out for a stroll...
One
night in Venice, I decided to set out - alone - from the hotel to
find the nearest church for the next day's Sunday masses. The hotel
clerk, moderately fluent in English, gave me what I thought were
clearly understood directions. I conveniently forgot that my navigational
skills were never as finely honed as I would have like. I strolled
away from the hotel, sure I knew just where to go. Well, I didn't,
as it turned out. I turned down streets, and when I failed to find
the church, tried to reverse my steps. Nothing on my way back looked
familiar, even though I hadn't been gone long enough to go too far.
That's what I told myself, anyway. Until finally, as the sun set
and the twilight shadows grew darker, I had to admit to myself I
was lost. In Venice.
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Someone will help...
Well, I thought. I'll just ask
someone the way back. Surely they can direct me to my hotel. After
all, it was
fairly large and had a big sign. And it was opposite a large "supermarcato,"
the Italian version of the supermarket. I spotted a couple of young
women and approached them with my guidebook Italian. "Scusi,"
I said, "Hotel Venezia?" I had the hotel's card and address
and they were sympathetic and helpful. Unfortunately, they were
helpful in Italian. I tried to follow their gestures, but alas,
it didn't work. Undeterred, I stopped another woman with a young
girl and gave them the same routine. They pointed, they gestured,
they tried to help, but again, no understanding. Who said that everyone
in Europe knows English? Maybe it's just shopkeepers in large cities,
not the ordinary Italians I was meeting on the street. I vowed I
would take Italian lessons as soon as I returned to the states.
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No reason to panic...
I was not about to panic, however.
But it was getting dark now, and I didn't see a policeman, a familiar
sight,
or even a restaurant around. A little desperate, I spotted a group
of young teens, milling around, flirting with one another, their
small motorbikes parked in a row. They were vivacious, laughing
and joking, happy to be out with their friends on a Saturday night.
They really were my last hope. I approached a beautiful young girl
who looked like one of my daughters.
"Scusi," I said again.
In my careful Italian I asked: "Dove se trouve Hotel Venezia?"
(Where do I find the Hotel Venezia?) "Oh, si, si!" she
said. Calling to her friends, she said to them, "Hotel Venezia?"
They all yelled, "Si, si," gesturing toward the left.
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A thousand
thanks...
The young woman pointed
at the Vespa parked nearby, and then at me. She smiled, hopped
on the motorbike and patted the back. I got the message without
a translation. So I, too, hopped on the back and she whizzed
off down the street. Turning sharply at a corner, she breezed
to a stop. "Hotel Venezia!" she said triumphantly,
and there it was, with the supermercato opposite, a welcome
sight to this nervous American. I thanked her profusely - "Mille
grazie" (a thousand thanks), thinking how beautiful this
group of young strangers was. And how easily people of goodwill
communicate, even without a common language. Everyone I had
approached was gracious,
but it was the very young who exuberantly rescued this dumb
traveler, who should have heeded her daughters' advice.
But you know, I'll probably
do it again. I read somewhere that the only way to see a foreign
city is to get lost in it. Next time, though, I'll lose my way
in the early afternoon when I can spot the bread crumbs.
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Pasta, pasta,
pasta...
Just
got back from Italy three weeks ago and loved it. In Venice
I suggest a stop at Rizzo
to check out their gourmet pasta - all flavors and shapes (some
even in the shape of gondolas). Fun to see and the pasta products
make interesting, light and packable gifts.
Denise, Schaumburg, USA
Ed. note: Take note
that food shops in Venice often close on a Wednesday
afternoon and many gift and clothes boutiques stay shut
on Monday mornings.
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For more terrific tips about Venice
from a woman's point of view, click
here.
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