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Shannon
Essa is a food loving, wine drinking, solo travelling, guidebook
writing, 30 something Journeywoman. Since 1998 she has traveled
through Europe and lived in Venice as well as Budapest. Now residing
in San Diego, USA Shannon lives on a diet of wine, music, and thoughts
of travel. We asked her about women-friendly restaurants in Venice.
Shannon writes...
Many
people travel to Venice and come away disappointed by the food.
Many parts of Venice are very touristy, and it is easy for a restaurant
to get away with mediocrity. However, it is also easy to find great
places to eat and drink all over Venice. Just keep some of these
guidelines in mind:
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Get
out of San Marco...
Never eat at a restaurant with a guy outside asking you to eat
there. Avoid restaurants with menus printed in 5 languages.
Of course there are probably exceptions to this rule, but only
go to one of these places if it is recommended to you by a good
guidebook or fellow traveller. I suggest you choose places that
seem to be full of happy locals.
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Venetians
love their bars...
Most Venetians stop in one or several every night on their way
home from work. In the bar, they will have an ombra (small glass
of wine) or a Spritz (white wine with a small shot of Campari
or Aperol (a sweeter version of Campari, and a splash of soda).
Their drinks are accompanied by cichetti, small snacks which
can range from a bite of ham to a fried, stuffed ball of rice
to a whole plate of roasted vegetables tossed in good olive
oil. You can eat, and drink very well and cheaply this way.
It's easy -- find a bar with a display of food and a good crowd,
order your wine and point to the food you want. The staff will
keep track of what you owe and you pay at the end.
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Cichetti
bars...
Alla Botte
(Calle della Bissa 5484, San Marco). This place is hard to
find but let me help you find your way. To get there, go to
Campo San Bartolomeo at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, find
the public bathrooms, and go around the corner. If Alla Botte
is open, it will be right there. They have a large selection
of really great cichetti plus all kinds of wines by the glass.
It can get a bit crowded here, but don't be shy, just walk
up to the bar. The two guys behind it speak some English.
(Vaporetto - Rialto)
Ai Promessi
Sposi (Calle dell’ Oca 4367, Cannaregio).
This is a great stop for cichetti right off the Strada Nova.
They have a huge spread of cichetti to choose from, good wine
by the glass, and a collection of grizzled guys from the hood
who will flirt innocently with you. (Vaporetto - Ca D'Oro)
Cantina
Do Mori (Calle dei Do Mori 429, San
Polo). This is one of the oldest bars in Venice, and one of
the most touristy, right in the heart of the Rialto Market.
But lots of Venetians still come here, and the wine and cichetti
are excellent.(Vaporetto - San Silvestro or Rialto and cross
the bridge)
Vivaldi
(Calle de la Madoneta 1457, San Polo). One of the best things
about Vivaldi is their big window right on the busy calle,
where you can eat your cichetti and drink your wine while
looking out at a never-ending stream of locals and tourists
streaming by. (Vaporetto - San Toma)
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