trattorias, and osterias...
Pizza is so easy -- just order, and eat. Eating in a trattoria
or an osteria, there are several choices you can make. Italian
menus have appetizers, the primo piatti (first course, usually
pasta or soup,) the secondo (second course, usually meat of
fish) and a selection of contorni (side dishes of vegetables
and salads.) You can eat every course if you are really hungry,
but it is also OK to order a primo as your main course, or to
skip the primo and have a secondo and a salad. The bottom line
is, there aren't any strict rules, and you don't have to order
every course. Order what looks good to you, but be careful not
to order too much -- there is no such thing as a doggy bag in
Venice. Make sure to save room for gelato on your way home!
(Salizzada San Provolo 4625, Castello).
This tiny, busy trattoria always has a line out the door.
But as a single traveller, you won't have to wait long --
they will probably seat you wherever there is an open seat
at one of the long tables in the front. That means you will
be eating at a table with others, but the food is excellent
and inexpensive, and the waiters attentive and English speaking.
M-m-m-m. I wonder who your eating partners will be? (Vaporetto
- San Zaccharia)
da Alberto (Calle Giacinto Gallina
5401, Cannaregio). Walk in for lunch and get a table, but
you had better show up right at 7:30 pm or make a reservation
if you want to eat here at night. They have a number of pleasant
little tables perfect for one (or two). The food is wonderful
and the servings are a perfect size to have both a primo and
secondo. The staff are sweethearts and it is not expensive
at all. (Vaporetto - Rialto)
(Rio Terra dei Franceschi 4615, Cannaregio). A trio of young
women work the tables at this fantastic pizzeria. Be prepared
-- service can be slow if it is busy -- but the pizza is worth
it, and the single traveler will be comfortable while they
wait, with a book or just people-watching. (Vaporetto - Ca
D'Oro or Rialto)
San Trovaso (Fondamenta Priuli 1016,
Dorsoduro). This place is always packed, but they will always
find a single woman a seat. Great pastas, wonderful fried
fish, and decent pizzas all served in large portions. Be careful
how much you order here because it will probably be too much.
Groan! (Vaporetto - Accademia)
Venice offers an extensive list of Venetian restaurants and
bars as well as Venetian food shops, wine shops, pasticcerias,
and gelaterias and an expensive glossary of Venetian and Italian
According to the authors of Chow!
Venice -- Ruth Edenbaum and Shannon Essa -- they wrote their
guidebook because they love Venice, and they love good food.
They are tired of hearing and reading that you cannot get
a decent meal in Venice. These women would like women & men
to experience the wonderful Venetian restaurants, trattorias,
osterias, wine bars, and cafes that are too often unseen by
the average tourist. For further information about this Venitian
guide, please visit: www.chowbellabooks.com.
P.S. You can also pick it up
in Venice at: Libreria Emiliana, Calle Goldoni 4487, San Marco
or in Rome at: Economy Book Center, Via Torino 136.
buys tea in Harry's Bar...
One winter afternoon, I stopped
into the famous Venetian bar, Harry's, to buy a Bellini. A
Bellini is a wonderful cocktail of fresh white peach juice
and prosecco, which is sparking wine from the Veneto. Harry's
was empty except for a table of Germans drinking tea, three
waiters doing their after-lunch counting, the bartender, and
me. I was sitting at the bar in my happy little world when
in walks a young woman with a backpack, dressed like she was
headed to a Grateful Dead concert. She clearly only wanted
to use the restroom but was quickly herded into a seat by
one of the waiters. They handed her a menu, and I watched
her eyes get round as saucers as she read it. "I only want
a tea," she said, very quietly and with a frightened look
on her face. Then she went off to the restroom. They served
her the tea, and of course it looked fabulous.
I summoned the bartender, and
said, very secretively, "I would like to buy that girl her
tea." He looked at me as though I wanted to murder her or
something. His eyes got as wide as hers did when she looked
at the menu. "Why?" he asked me. "Because I just want to."
I told him. "Do you want me to tell her you are buying her
tea?" "No," I said. "But just don't charge her again after
I leave!" The bartender was stunned that I would do this for
a stranger with no ulterior motive. He said under his breath
so only the waiters and I could hear him, "She wants to buy
that girl her tea!" The three waiters all looked at me, eyes
When the bartender brought me
the bill, he said "Since "you" are buying the tea, I am giving
you a very good price." It was four dollars or something,
and I left without saying anything to the girl, and when I
go to Harry's now, occasionally a second Prosecco shows up
out of nowhere. It's karma, man.
(Source: Shannon Essa, co-author of Chow! Venice)