The tone of the trip changes...

What began as an adventure and test of strength and endurance, now became a gentle stroll through medieval villages with a lot of food and “beaucoup de vins.” We appreciated the variety of scenery and the hotels selected for us. One night, nestled high on a hill (there’s that word again), in the village of Vezelay, we stayed at Hotel de la Poste et du Lion D’Or. Our room had a beautiful view of the ancient stone streets and the Basilica St. Madelaine. We slept with our windows open that night, listening to the lull of voices from the patio below.

Next day was a total change of pace. Beth and I spent the day reading by a lovely lake at Les Settons, a vacation spot for local families where camping, pedal boats, swimming and a fishing school are the main attractions. Our accommodations at La Vielle Diligence -- an old rustic farmhouse -- matched the surroundings. Dinner here was not like eating at a hotel. The hearty home-cooked meal was served family style around a large table and we enjoyed unique conversations with our hosts and the other guests. In fact, we met a true adventurer who was travelling on horseback, on his own, from his home in Germany all the way to Spain.

Twelve handsome chefs...

Each day promised new pleasures. Once again in the luxury of our taxi, we arrived at Arney Le Duc, yet another beautiful little town. The day was spent slowly exploring the nooks and crannies of this little gem. Our hotel room was clean and simple with shower and toilet but here at Chez Camille Hotel, we experienced the type of French cuisine and service that I’d only ever read about before. The dining room was a lovely annexed area filled with overgrown benjamin ficcus trees that pressed against the glass ceiling. We were seated at a table which faced a glass wall behind which a dozen handsome chefs (yummy!) were preparing our meal. By the end of the meal we had eaten nine courses, five of which were a series of delicate desserts.

And suddenly it was over. The next morning we were driven over mountains, hills, dips and bends, back to our first hotel in Savigny de Beaune. When the proprietor saw us coming out of the taxi, he asked, “Ou sont les velos?” (“Where are the bikes?”) “Oh,” we said with a smile, “Beth had a bit of an accident but we had a great time in spite of it.” And then we sat down and enjoyed yet another fine bottle of wine from the Burgundy region. Sometimes things turn out for the best. We learned that biking in France, no matter how many hills, isn’t a bit difficult at all!

Be sure not to forget ...

• padded bicycle shorts
• your own padded bike seat or gel seat
• biking gloves
• water bottle
• snacks
• medical travel insurance
• French dictionary

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