| Journeywoman
Mariellen Ward is
a Toronto-based freelance writer and editor who has published articles
in magazines such as Dreamscapes, Arrival, and on various internet
travel sites. A passionate Indiaphile, she has traveled extensively
in India on three trips and studies Hindi and Yoga in both Toronto
and in India. We asked Mariellen to give us 10 tips to help other
women preparing for a trip to India. She writes...
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Aside
from good walking shoes and sandals, a one-piece bathing suit
and cotton bras and underwear – or, if you prefer, the
synthetic kind that wicks away sweat – don’t bring
any clothes to India. If you land in Delhi, head straight
to one of the Fabindia
outlets and stock up on inexpensive cotton “suits.”
The three-piece suit (in Hindi, salwar kameez) consists of
a long or short tunic over fitted or wide-legged pants, topped
with a long scarf, called a dupatta. These outfits suit the
climate, the need for modesty and will help you fit in, mitigating
your status as a moving target for gawkers, touts and beggars.
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Even
if you don’t opt for wearing the costume preferred by
many women in India, the “suit” or salwar kameez,
always travel with a long scarf made of light-weight fabric.
It will come in handy for situations where modesty will be
more convenient and allow you to go into mosques, gurdwaras
and more traditionally minded Hindu temples.
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Jas Vilas Hotel in posh Bani
Park, Jaipur is a favourite accommodation option, a real gem,
but it is on the expensive side and often full. The owner’s
niece, Sanyogita – who is a Rajput royal – recently
opened a comfortable and gracious guesthouse in her lovely
home. The Rawla,
also in Bani Park, offers modern amenities, good food, and,
best of all, Sanyogita’s company and advice. Sanyogita
is a charming hostess who knows Jaipur like the back of her
hand. In 2009, a single accommodation was about $US30 per
night. Websites: http://www.jasvilas.com
http://www.hotelsjaipur.com/rawla_rawatsar_jaipur.htm
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In India, I never go out for
the day without a mini pack or two of tissues, a small bottle
of hand disinfectant, a cell phone and an iPod shuffle. I
use the cell phone to call a friend (or guesthouse) and report
the number of the taxi, as I get in, and so that the driver
can hear me. (If no one answers, I pretend!) In markets and
bazaars, I sometimes turn up the iPod so that I can’t
hear the aggressive vendors, and they eventually leave me
alone.
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Check online posts for recommendations
and tips from fellow travelers. I found the wonderful Fifu
Guest House in Jaisalmer this way –
I figured that 140 glowing recommendations couldn’t
be wrong. They weren’t. I also read a tip for women,
advising them to travel back to the Fifu from Jaisalmer by
taxi, rather than by foot, after dark. That's what I did.
Website: www.fifutravel.com/
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I
was very glad that I stayed at the Hotel
Ganges View, Assi Ghat, in Varanasi. Aside
from being a comfortable and safe place to stay, it also features
a communal dining experience in the gracious dining room.
At dinner, I met other women traveling alone, and a couple
of us went on to Delhi together, sharing some of the expenses.
To read hotel reviews: http://tinyurl.com/nd5ojh
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Rishikesh is a wonderful destination
for a woman traveling alone in India who is interested in
health, wellness, yoga or spirituality. The “yoga capital
of the world” is a relatively serene town that meanders
along the jewel-green Ganges River as it cascades through
a beautiful valley among the Himalayan foothills. There are
many safe accommodation options in ashrams and guesthouses
and lots of opportunity to take yoga classes, study and meet
other women traveling alone.
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IndiaMike.com
is a great online resource, packed with destination information,
travel articles and forums on many topics relating to traveling
or living in India. You can pose very specific questions and
chances are good that a friendly and knowledgeable fellow-traveler
will respond.
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Makemytrip.com
is an Indian travel site that offers information and can help
you plan your itinerary and book plane, train and bus tickets
as well as hotel and homestay accommodation.
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One of my favourite Indian experiences
was staying for two weeks at Shinshiva
Ayruvedic Resort in south Kerala (about 8
kms south of busy Kovalam Beach). The Shinshiva is a small
resort that features thatched-roof cottages, an open-air Ayurvedic
dining room, a perfect cliff-top setting overlooking the Arabian
sea and magical sunsets AND authentic Ayurvedic treatments
such as one-hour-long hot oil massages performed by two young
women working in rhythmic harmony. Also a good place to meet
other women travelers, it is a favourite destination for Europeans.
Website: www.shinshivaresort.com/
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More relaxed
shopping in Delhi...
I love shopping
in Delhi, but I know it can be an overwhelming experience
for the uninitiated. If you want to shop in a more relaxed,
upscale environment, follow the diplomatic crowd to Khan
Market in central New Delhi, close to the
Lodhi Gardens. You
can easily spend at least half a day in great stores like
Anokhi, Biotique (for Ayurvedic skin care), Amrapali Jewellers,
Fabinidia and the Full Circle bookstore; and stop for lunch
at the Big Chill, the Market Cafe or the Turtle Cafe. And
if you are missing food from home, specialty food stores carry
European cheese, British biscuits, American breakfast cereal
and even Canadian maple syrup -- for a price.
Click
here to watch a video about Khan
Market. It will give you a great idea of what
it's like.
To read about
Mariellen's travels to India (and for more tips), please visit
http://breathedreamgo.com/
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