| Our London expert, Leslie
Ehm is a regular Journeywoman contributing editor. Were
delighted to hear that one of her latest travel articles has been
selected for an upcoming Travelers Tales anthology. Leslie writes...
The city
of London is one of the world's most popular travel destinations,
yet the likelihood is, that most visitors never really get the
sense of what real London life is all about.
Leicester Square, Covent
Garden, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Oxford
Street - all great tourist spots and worth seeing, but they are
about a thousand miles away from what London actually is - how
it feels, smells, its neighbourhoods and its diverse culture.
Quite recently, the impressive
Regents Plaza Hotel opened its door. Its not unlike
many other top class London hotels, with its glamorous lobby,
classy restaurants, health club and comfortable if not pricey
rooms. But there is something quite unique about this hotel -
its location! Set right on the apex of Maida Vale and Kilburn,
its the last place one would expect a hotel of this calibre
to be situated.
| Welcome
to my neighbourhoods...
Maida
Vale is a largely residential area - somewhat upmarket although
still affordable. It has a few cafes, very little real
shopping and other than a few corner stores offerring amenities,
not much on the surface to attract tourists.
Kilburn is a true London
neighbourhood. Featuring a largely Irish community, it also
boasts an amazingly integrated population. On a Saturday
morning, you'll see examples of every cultural persuasion
shopping on its bustling high street. It's not too pretty,
not pristine, and certainly isn't tourist orientated, but
its real - and has been my home for 13 years. I know
the true secrets that both Kilburn and Maida Vale have to
offer.... |
| Get
the tourist stuff done...
So, for
a stay in London of a different kind- - one that will give
you a true taste of the city -- why not try this? First,
enjoy a few nights luxurious stay in the plush Regents
Plaza Hotel. Though youll be located a bit far
from the heart of the action, youre close to transportation
which by bus (#16A / 98), by tube (Kilburn Park - Bakerloo
line), or by cab (approx. £6), will take you to any
one of the usual touristy attractions London has to offer.
Then, when you're finally tired of taking photos of London
Bobbys or queuing up at Madame Tussaud's Wax
Museum... |
| Welcome
to the Real London...
This itinerary can
be broken down over several days or as you see fit. Lets
begin with a stroll along Maida Vale. (walk out of the hotel
and turn left) Check out the fantastic 18th/19th century
architecture as you make your way to Clifton Gardens, where
you can stop for a lovely lunch at one of several cafes.
I recommend Raoul's or Café Rouge.
After lunch, continue up Maida Vale until you hit Café
Laville (which marks the end of Maida Vale and the start
of Edgeware Road). Take a seat, order a cup of their fantastic
coffee and their yummy baked cheesecake dessert. Then, look
out over the canal which the tiny restaurant straddles. After
taking in the view, you'll understand why this area is known
as Little Venice and no doubt youll be inspired to
inspect the canal a little more closely. Walk down Blomfield
Road and find an open gateway to lead you right down along
the water. Here, you'll find houseboat after houseboat,
ornately decorated-- some even with elaborate gardens along
the walkway. If this starts to give you a taste for the
open water, you can ride a tour boat along the canals from
Little Venice all the way to Camden Lock, some 3 miles away.
The fare is £5 one way, and worth every penny. This
is a part of London that few tourists ever end up seeing. |
| This
time turn right...
For
a completely different experience, backtrack to the Regents
Plaza Hotel and this time turn right out of the doors
and take a two minute walk into Kilburn via the High Road.
Pick up the most amazing pre-prepared snacks and salads
at Marks and Spencers and watch the locals do their
shopping. Check out the wares at the fruit stalls, flower
stands, small outdoor markets and bric a brac shops. For
women, this stroll isn't recommended after dark, but during
the day, its certainly an eyeful!
Take a left onto one
of the residential streets and make your way down to Salusbury
Road, the road parallel to Kilburn High Road. This marks
the beginning of Queen's Park. Simply ask anyone to point
you in the direction of the park itself, which is just off
Harvest Road, a minute's walk at most. Its quite large,
mostly open, and has a lovely family atmosphere to it.
For a truly English
experience, take tea at the park's little cafeteria while
sitting at the picnic tables. Back on Salusbury Road, there's
a few interesting shops dotted around but I wouldn't really
call this a shopping area. You might want to have a meal
at the newly opened Penk's restaurant, tiny, trendy
and tasty. Or walk up to Lonsdale Road, which consists solely
of converted mews buildings and businesses and boasts the
most popular restaurant in the neighbourhood -- The Organic
Café. This resto lives up to its name, offering
only food prepared with organically grown produce as well
as an impressive range of organic wine. I'd recommend it
for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner -- or even just to
have a glass of wine after dark, when they light candles
to make the place literally twinkle.
Other restaurants in
the neighbourhood worth a look are Vijay, for delightful
North Indian cuisine, and Satay Raya, serving up
memorable Malaysian/Indonesian food. |
| Not
after dark, please...
This isn't an area to
stroll about late at night. The lads tend to get a little
boisterous as they emerge from the pubs and drunkeness can
be a bit of a problem. If you do visit the Organic Café,
I suggest walking back to the hotel via Salusbury Road and
then back up to Kilburn High Road via the wide and well
lit Brondesbury Road. There's no reason to feel unsafe in
this neighbourhood -- I personally never had a problem in
all the years I've lived there, but its always smart
to be cautious in the big city. Ask for a local map at the
hotel and you'll be able to chart your paths to both Maida
Vale and through Kilburn. Or better still, if you want to
look like a real Londoner, pick up an A-Z (street guide)
from one of the local newsagents. We all carry them.
|
| Back
at your hotel...
Finally,
back at the Regents Plaza Hotel, be sure at some
point to take advantage of the fantastic health spa that
is available on site. You will be pleasantly surprised with
their facilities -- everything from weights, cardio machines,
fitness classes, pool, steam and sauna. Very unusual for
a London hotel!
After your workout,
indulge in one of their fresh fruit drinks available at
the bar -- both healthy and refreshing.
Voila, the end of a
perfect few days for Journeywoman.
|
| Leslies
Know-Before-You-Go Advice
| Regents Plaza Hotel
Plaza Parade
Maida Vale
London NW6
For reservations:
Tel 0171 543 6000
Fax 0171 543 2100 |
|
Raoul's
13 Clifton Gardens, W9 |
Café Rouge
26 Clifton Gardens, W9 |
Café Laville
453 Edgeware Road, W2 |
Penk's
43 Salusbury Road, NW6 |
Organic Café
Lonsdale Road, NW6 |
Vijay
49 Willesden Lane, NW6 |
| Satay Raya
Belsize Road |
|
|
P.S. If you are travelling
to London and would like to have further info, we suggest you
read these articles:
Her
Top Five Tube Stops in London
London
Theatre - 10 Ways to Pay Less |