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She Explores Residential London

Our London expert, Leslie Ehm is a regular Journeywoman contributing editor. We’re delighted to hear that one of her latest travel articles has been selected for an upcoming Travelers Tales anthology. Leslie writes...


The city of London is one of the world's most popular travel destinations, yet the likelihood is, that most visitors never really get the sense of what real London life is all about.

Leicester Square, Covent Garden, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Street - all great tourist spots and worth seeing, but they are about a thousand miles away from what London actually is - how it feels, smells, its neighbourhoods and its diverse culture.

Quite recently, the impressive Regents Plaza Hotel opened its door. It’s not unlike many other top class London hotels, with its glamorous lobby, classy restaurants, health club and comfortable if not pricey rooms. But there is something quite unique about this hotel - its location! Set right on the apex of Maida Vale and Kilburn, it’s the last place one would expect a hotel of this calibre to be situated.


 

Welcome to my neighbourhoods...

homeMaida Vale is a largely residential area - somewhat upmarket although still affordable. It has a few cafes, very little “real” shopping and other than a few corner stores offerring amenities, not much on the surface to attract tourists.

Kilburn is a true London neighbourhood. Featuring a largely Irish community, it also boasts an amazingly integrated population. On a Saturday morning, you'll see examples of every cultural persuasion shopping on its bustling high street. It's not too pretty, not pristine, and certainly isn't tourist orientated, but it’s real - and has been my home for 13 years. I know the true secrets that both Kilburn and Maida Vale have to offer....


touristGet the tourist stuff done...

So, for a stay in London of a different kind- - one that will give you a true taste of the city -- why not try this? First, enjoy a few nights luxurious stay in the plush Regents Plaza Hotel. Though you’ll be located a bit far from the heart of the action, you’re close to transportation which by bus (#16A / 98), by tube (Kilburn Park - Bakerloo line), or by cab (approx. £6), will take you to any one of the usual touristy attractions London has to offer. Then, when you're finally tired of taking photos of London “Bobby”s or queuing up at Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum...


Welcome to the Real London...

This itinerary can be broken down over several days or as you see fit. Let’s begin with a stroll along Maida Vale. (walk out of the hotel and turn left) Check out the fantastic 18th/19th century architecture as you make your way to Clifton Gardens, where you can stop for a lovely lunch at one of several cafes. I recommend Raoul's or Café Rouge. After lunch, continue up Maida Vale until you hit Café Laville (which marks the end of Maida Vale and the start of Edgeware Road). Take a seat, order a cup of their fantastic coffee and their yummy baked cheesecake dessert. Then, look out over the canal which the tiny restaurant straddles.cake and coffeeAfter taking in the view, you'll understand why this area is known as Little Venice and no doubt you’ll be inspired to inspect the canal a little more closely. Walk down Blomfield Road and find an open gateway to lead you right down along the water. Here, you'll find houseboat after houseboat, ornately decorated-- some even with elaborate gardens along the walkway. If this starts to give you a taste for the open water, you can ride a tour boat along the canals from Little Venice all the way to Camden Lock, some 3 miles away. The fare is £5 one way, and worth every penny. This is a part of London that few tourists ever end up seeing.


This time turn right...

fruit standFor a completely different experience, backtrack to the Regents Plaza Hotel and this time turn right out of the doors and take a two minute walk into Kilburn via the High Road. Pick up the most amazing pre-prepared snacks and salads at Marks and Spencers and watch the locals do their shopping. Check out the wares at the fruit stalls, flower stands, small outdoor markets and bric a brac shops. For women, this stroll isn't recommended after dark, but during the day, its certainly an eyeful!

Take a left onto one of the residential streets and make your way down to Salusbury Road, the road parallel to Kilburn High Road. This marks the beginning of Queen's Park. Simply ask anyone to point you in the direction of the park itself, which is just off Harvest Road, a minute's walk at most. It’s quite large, mostly open, and has a lovely family atmosphere to it.

For a truly English experience, take tea at the park's little cafeteria while sitting at the picnic tables. Back on Salusbury Road, there's a few interesting shops dotted around but I wouldn't really call this a shopping area. You might want to have a meal at the newly opened Penk's restaurant, tiny, trendy and tasty. Or walk up to Lonsdale Road, which consists solely of converted mews buildings and businesses and boasts the most popular restaurant in the neighbourhood -- The Organic Café. This resto lives up to its name, offering only food prepared with organically grown produce as well as an impressive range of organic wine. I'd recommend it for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner -- or even just to have a glass of wine after dark, when they light candles to make the place literally “twinkle.”

Other restaurants in the neighbourhood worth a look are Vijay, for delightful North Indian cuisine, and Satay Raya, serving up memorable Malaysian/Indonesian food.


Not after dark, please...

not after dark This isn't an area to stroll about late at night. The lads tend to get a little boisterous as they emerge from the pubs and drunkeness can be a bit of a problem. If you do visit the Organic Café, I suggest walking back to the hotel via Salusbury Road and then back up to Kilburn High Road via the wide and well lit Brondesbury Road. There's no reason to feel unsafe in this neighbourhood -- I personally never had a problem in all the years I've lived there, but it’s always smart to be cautious in the big city. Ask for a local map at the hotel and you'll be able to chart your paths to both Maida Vale and through Kilburn. Or better still, if you want to look like a real Londoner, pick up an A-Z (street guide) from one of the local newsagents. We all carry them.


Back at your hotel...


exercise bikeFinally, back at the Regents Plaza Hotel, be sure at some point to take advantage of the fantastic health spa that is available on site. You will be pleasantly surprised with their facilities -- everything from weights, cardio machines, fitness classes, pool, steam and sauna. Very unusual for a London hotel!

After your workout, indulge in one of their fresh fruit drinks available at the bar -- both healthy and refreshing.

Voila, the end of a perfect few days for Journeywoman.


Leslie’s Know-Before-You-Go Advice

Regents Plaza Hotel
Plaza Parade
Maida Vale
London NW6
For reservations:
Tel 0171 543 6000
Fax 0171 543 2100

Raoul's
13 Clifton Gardens, W9
Café Rouge
26 Clifton Gardens, W9
Café Laville
453 Edgeware Road, W2
Penk's
43 Salusbury Road, NW6
Organic Café
Lonsdale Road, NW6

Vijay
49 Willesden Lane, NW6

Satay Raya
Belsize Road

 

P.S. If you are travelling to London and would like to have further info, we suggest you read these articles:

Her Top Five Tube Stops in London

London Theatre - 10 Ways to Pay Less




 

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