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Our London expert, Leslie Ehm
is a regular Journeywoman
contributing editor. Were delighted to hear that one of her
latest travel articles has been selected for an upcoming Travelers Tales
anthology. Leslie writes...
The city of London is one of the
world's most popular travel destinations, yet the likelihood is, that
most visitors never really get the sense of what real London life is
all about.
Leicester Square, Covent Garden,
Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Street - all
great tourist spots and worth seeing, but they are about a thousand
miles away from what London actually is - how it feels, smells, its
neighbourhoods and its diverse culture.
Quite recently, the impressive
Regents Plaza Hotel opened its door. Its not unlike many
other top class London hotels, with its glamorous lobby, classy restaurants,
health club and comfortable if not pricey rooms. But there is something
quite unique about this hotel - its location! Set right on the apex
of Maida Vale and Kilburn, its the last place one would expect
a hotel of this calibre to be situated.
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Welcome to my
neighbourhoods...
Maida
Vale is a largely residential area - somewhat upmarket although
still affordable. It has a few cafes, very little real
shopping and other than a few corner stores offerring amenities,
not much on the surface to
attract tourists.
Kilburn is a true London
neighbourhood. Featuring a largely Irish community, it also boasts
an amazingly integrated population. On a Saturday morning, you'll
see examples of every cultural persuasion shopping
on its bustling high street. It's not too pretty, not pristine,
and certainly isn't tourist orientated, but its real - and
has been my home for 13 years. I know the true secrets that both
Kilburn and Maida Vale have
to offer....
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Get
the tourist stuff done...
So, for a stay
in London of a different kind- - one that will give you a true
taste of the city -- why not try this? First, enjoy a few nights
luxurious stay in the plush Regents Plaza Hotel. Though
youll be located a bit far from the heart of the action,
youre close to transportation which by bus (#16A / 98),
by tube (Kilburn Park - Bakerloo line), or by cab (approx. £6),
will take you to any one of the usual touristy attractions London
has to offer. Then, when you're finally tired of taking photos
of London Bobbys or queuing up at Madame Tussaud's
Wax Museum...
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Welcome to the
Real London...
This itinerary can be broken
down over several days or as you see fit. Lets begin with
a stroll along Maida Vale. (walk out of the hotel and turn left)
Check out the fantastic 18th/19th century architecture as you
make your way to Clifton Gardens, where you can stop for a lovely
lunch at one of several cafes. I recommend Raoul's or Café
Rouge. After lunch, continue up Maida Vale until you hit Café
Laville (which marks the end of Maida Vale and the start of
Edgeware Road). Take a seat, order a cup of their fantastic coffee
and their yummy baked cheesecake dessert. Then, look out over
the canal which the tiny restaurant straddles. After
taking in the view, you'll understand why this area is known as
Little Venice and no doubt youll be inspired to inspect
the canal a little more closely. Walk down Blomfield Road and
find an open gateway to lead you right down along the water. Here,
you'll find houseboat after houseboat, ornately decorated-- some
even with elaborate gardens along the walkway. If this starts
to give you a taste for the open water, you can ride a tour boat
along the canals from Little Venice all the way to Camden Lock,
some 3 miles away. The fare is £5 one way, and worth every
penny. This is a part of London that few tourists ever end up
seeing.
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This time turn
right...
For
a completely different experience, backtrack to the Regents
Plaza Hotel and this time turn right out of the doors and
take a two minute walk into Kilburn via the High Road. Pick up
the most amazing pre-prepared snacks and salads at Marks and
Spencers and watch the locals do their shopping. Check out
the wares at the fruit stalls, flower stands, small outdoor markets
and bric a brac shops. For women, this stroll isn't recommended
after dark, but during the day, its certainly an eyeful!
Take a left onto one of the
residential streets and make your way down to Salusbury Road,
the road parallel to Kilburn High Road. This marks the beginning
of Queen's Park. Simply ask anyone to point you in the
direction of the park itself, which is just off Harvest Road,
a minute's walk at most. Its quite large, mostly open, and
has a lovely family atmosphere to it.
For a truly English experience,
take tea at the park's little cafeteria while sitting at the picnic
tables. Back on Salusbury Road, there's a few interesting shops
dotted around but I wouldn't really call this a shopping area.
You might want to have a meal at the newly opened Penk's
restaurant, tiny, trendy and tasty. Or walk up to Lonsdale Road,
which consists solely of converted mews buildings and businesses
and boasts the most popular restaurant in the neighbourhood --
The Organic Café. This resto lives up to its name,
offering only food prepared with organically grown produce as
well as an impressive range of organic wine. I'd recommend it
for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner -- or even just to have a
glass of wine after dark, when they light candles to make the
place literally twinkle.
Other restaurants in the
neighbourhood worth a look are Vijay, for delightful North
Indian cuisine, and Satay Raya, serving up memorable Malaysian/Indonesian
food.
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Not after dark,
please...
This isn't an area to stroll
about late at night. The lads tend to get a little boisterous
as they emerge from the pubs and drunkeness can be a bit of a
problem. If you do visit the Organic Café, I suggest
walking back to the hotel via Salusbury Road and then back up
to Kilburn High Road via the wide and well lit Brondesbury Road.
There's no reason to feel unsafe in this neighbourhood -- I personally
never had a problem in all the years I've lived there, but its
always smart to be cautious in the big city. Ask for a local map
at the hotel and you'll be able to chart your paths to both Maida
Vale and through Kilburn. Or better still, if you want to look
like a real Londoner, pick up an A-Z (street guide) from one of
the local newsagents. We all carry them.
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Back at your
hotel...
Finally,
back at the Regents Plaza Hotel, be sure at some point
to take advantage of the fantastic health spa that is available
on site. You will be pleasantly surprised with their facilities
-- everything from weights, cardio machines, fitness classes,
pool, steam and sauna. Very unusual for a London hotel!
After your workout, indulge
in one of their fresh fruit drinks available at the bar -- both
healthy and refreshing.
Voila, the end of a perfect
few days for Journeywoman.
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Leslies
Know-Before-You-Go Advice
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Regents Plaza Hotel
Plaza Parade
Maida Vale
London NW6
For reservations:
Tel 0171 543 6000
Fax 0171 543 2100
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Raoul's
13 Clifton Gardens, W9 |
Café Rouge
26 Clifton Gardens, W9 |
Café Laville
453 Edgeware Road, W2 |
Penk's
43 Salusbury Road, NW6 |
Organic Café
Lonsdale Road, NW6 |
Vijay
49 Willesden Lane, NW6
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Satay Raya
Belsize Road
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P.S. If you are travelling to
London and would like to have further info, we suggest you read these
articles:
Her
Top Five Tube Stops in London
London
Theatre - 10 Ways to Pay Less
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