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She
Goes Solo -- She Finds Courage
Canadian,
Karen Dougherty is a TV researcher, writer, singer, songwriter, voracious
reader and world-traveller. This is the article that proved to us, without
a doubt that Karen is a true and fabulous Journeywoman. She writes...
I arrived
in Bangkok weighted down with good luck charms--my dad's Blarney Stone,
my mother's rosary, a Nordic rune, a blessed Hindu scroll, a St. Christopher's
medal. I'd covered all bets. So why was I so scared?
For years,
the travel bug had been eating me alive. I was afraid to disturb my
universe, but I'd finally become more afraid not to. Of all my fears,
I realized, my biggest was regret. At 30, I was growing a little long
in the tooth for the backpacking circuit, but if I didn't do it "now,"
I knew I never would. So I left my very good job, gave up my very nice
apartment, sold all my stuff, and bought a one-way ticket to the other
side of the world.
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Beware the night
people...
It
was 2 a.m. when I landed. What had I done? The crazy, steaming
city swirled and blared around me, the strange language honked
and gabbled. I didn't understand the currency. It took two and
a half hours to find my hotel, through dark streets strewn with
stray dogs and slinking night people. But a kind man I met on
the plane came with me, argued good-naturedly with the cabdriver
in passable Thai, and saw me off with a smile and a wave. His
unsolicited goodwill made me think I just might muddle through.
I crisscrossed
Thailand using every form of transportation known to woman save
camel, Concorde, and dog sled. I travelled Vietnam, with its jarring,
half-formed roads, aggressive driving, and incomprehensible cultural
subtleties. I got scared. I got involved. I got physical.
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A lot of Band-aids...
I
used more Band-aids in those three months than in my
entire adult life, a whole box, every size, a literal illustration
of the difference between life at home and life "out there."
My body was dotted purple, blue, and yellow from various stages
of bruising. My wrists, knees, and elbows barely healed
before the tender new skin was scraped off again, joining the
old in the oblivion of jungle floor, dirt road, rocky beach.
And although I was losing a lifetime's accumulation
of fears every day, some, tested, stuck around. I like to think
of these fears as not just healthy, but positively Darwinian in
their atavistic logic. It's good to be afraid of hand-sized cave
spiders. They bite. They're bad. It's good to be afraid of the
ocean. The ocean thinks of me as a piece of dust or a bit of food.
I respect that. I wade. I dip. I paddle. I watch.
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Coconut bombs...
I amassed
some new fears. It had never occurred to me to be afraid of jellyfish.
There are no jellyfish at Wasaga Beach at home. But they are plentiful
and painful in the clear, blue, Indian Ocean, and I don't want
to be around them, nor the two-headed, very poisonous snake I
saw while snorkeling for the first, and possibly last, time.
One
night, I thought the bomb went off when a coconut fell on my bungalow.
Over 70 people die every year in Thailand from falling coconuts.
I learned to take care while wandering the beautiful groves. And
monkeys. Monkeys are unpredictable and aggressive. They are neither
approachable nor huggable. Although I wore my monkey-bruise with
pride, I began to learn the difference between taking risks and
pushing my luck.
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