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December 26 -- Ko Lanta Yai, Thailand
What a Christmas. Today is a lazy
day. I tanned on the beach and swam in the warm ocean. Tonight, we
will sit around the fire on the beach and learn Thai songs and marvel
at our glorious luck.
January 1 -- Ko Lanta Yai, Thailand
Wonderful party last night to ring
in the new year. I was having such a good time at the party on the
beach. It was only at midnight, when it became painfully clear how
alone I actually am here, that I felt homesick. Feel better today
after calling home. Costs the moon, but it was worth it to hear my
dad's voice.
January 3 -- 2000 Krabi, Thailand
Said my farewells today to Mama,
Oy, Bang, Bao, and the rest on Ko Lanta. Sort of hard because I feel
like I've become part of the family. They've been so kind, open, generous,
and fun. Mama sent me off with pineapple, watermelon, bananas, and
a couple of yards of beautiful green Thai silk. I'll miss them.
January 5 -- East Railae, Thailand
I'm thoroughly enjoying myself
in this idyllic place, surrounded by limestone karsts and blue, blue
ocean. And as I suspected it might, home is looking better and better
all the time. Like HOME, somehow, something I've never felt about
Toronto and my life there.
January 9 -- East Railae, Thailand
I realize why I'm so lonely here
in Railae. Aside from the fact I haven't had a conversation in 4 days,
the fact is that I formed attachments on Ko Lanta. I fell in love
with the children there, bonded with the grown-ups. It was hard to
leave. And easy, because I was itching to see new places.
January 15 -- Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi is a remarkably beautiful
city, filled with bicycles and street markets and little lakes and
lovely temples. Vietnam's not been easy, but there've been way more
ups than downs. I'm feeling the loneliness more here than in Thailand...
January 17 -- Sa Pa, Vietnam
This place is more beautiful than
any where I've ever been. This is what I was thinking as we wound
our way up into the tiered, misted mountains. And then I misted up
myself thinking about what's even more beautiful: my best friend's
voice, my nieces' laughter, my mother's face... Despite the new, glorious,
fantastical sounds, the best is my name on the lips of my people,
a cry of welcome, friend, I missed you. I'm so glad you're home. I
guess I'm a little emotional. But who wouldn't be? I feel so alive,
open to everything, hurt and joy alike.
January 19 -- Bacha, Vietnam
If possible, Bacha is even more
gorgeous than Sa Pa, even in winter. But my heart is heavy. These
people are so poor. They don't really have enough to eat in winter.
They are shy but generous. I find it difficult to reconcile their
poverty and living conditions with their sweet souls. I'm having a
case of privilege-itis.
January 23 -- Catba Island, Vietnam
This is a wonderful place, a world
apart, a floating town filled with lovely, bright children. But I'm
tired. Sometimes I feel I'm in exile. I'm homesick and scared. I'm
fed up and hungry. I feel like I'll never be totally clean again.
One of the things I miss most is my language, its subtleties. Also
miss cheese. And red meat. And mashed potatoes with gravy. And really
good wine. I'm soon going home. I can't wait.
February 5 -- Karachi, Pakistan
I'm in a very strange airport waiting
for my connecting flight to England. Getting on and off planes is
such a breeze now. I'm an old pro. It feels weird to have left Southeast
Asia. I haven't organized all the information in my mind. I'm looking
forward now, not back. I can't wait to see my friends in London. But
what I do think is that this trip may have been one of the most important
things I've ever done for myself. Time will tell. I'm tired, but I
feel terrific. At peace. Very strong. And happy.
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